With an assistant, lift the complete torsion spring tube assembly and slide the ends of the tube into the bearing on the end bearing plates. NOTE: Red-headed fasteners must be installed for the attachment of center bearing plate to indicate this part will be under extreme tension once spring is wound FIG.
The center bearing plate resists the considerable counter torque of the springs. This wood anchor pad must be installed to the frame of the garage as stated in Step 1. The cable that is attached to each bottom bracket is brought up between the wall and roller shafts to the cable drum.
This cable is placed in the notch on the cable drum. Turning the cable drum and sliding it up tight against the end bearing plate removes the cable slack. Make sure the cable follows the grooves in the cable drum.
Locking pliers clamped to the torsion spring tube maintain tension on the cable FIG. This procedure should be repeated on the opposite side. Check for a straight line drawn across the length of the spring s. If no line is present, draw one using a piece of chalk.
This will be used to indicate the number of turns on the spring s. The number of turns is shown in the table in FIG. The tail of the torsion spring coil points in the direction that the spring is wound FIG. NEVER use screwdrivers or other substitutes for winding bars! Stand to the side of bars. Be sure to insert the bars all the way into the hole. Secure each spring with the set screws on the winding cone. On doors with two torsion springs, each torsion spring should be wound the same number of turns.
Remove the locking pliers. This is the first time the new door is being opened. If the tracks are not correctly aligned or the back hangers are not strong enough, the door may fall. Proceed slowly and carefully. Check to be sure the horizontal tracks are parallel with each side of the door. Make sure all the lag screws are securely fastened. If adjustment of the rear track hanger is necessary, the door must be locked in the closed position because the weight of the door is supported by the rear hangers.
See Step 2. To adjust torsion spring tension, the door is locked in the down position. With locking pliers clamped on the torsion tube, winding bars are used to wind the springs tighter to increase tension. Tension is reduced by removing turns.
When two springs are used, both sides should be adjusted the same. NEVER adjust center bearing plate or red-headed fasteners after springs are wound. Be prepared to handle a strong force when reducing tension on a torsion spring. Use winding bars only, and stand to the side. Torsion Spring Installation and Adjustment This article posted courtesy Clopay Doors We heartily thank the Clopay Company for allowing us to reprint this slightly modified instructional article on installing torsion springs.
NH Please read and understand these instructions completely before proceeding with the installation of torsion springs. Important Safety Information Torsion springs can be very dangerous if they are improperly installed or mishandled. Materials Required for Torsion Spring Installation: 1. Record this dimension. Measure this distance from the top of the door to the header. Make a line at this distance with a pencil or a marker. Hold the spring anchor bracket against the header as shown. The line you made in the previous step must line up with the notch in the bracket.
The longer end of the spring anchor bracket needs to be on top. Predrill the top of both adjustable slots in the spring anchor bracket. Additionally, predrill the stationary hole in the bottom of the bracket. Secure the spring anchor bracket to the garage door header where you pre-drilled using lag screws. Notice that I moved the spring anchor bracket a little to the left. Since the bolt on the right side of the garage door header was in the way of the bracket, I had to move the bracket.
Though it is not quite centered, this will not affect the performance of the garage door. If you do this, make sure you secure the bracket in the middle of a board on the header.
Vise grip the spring anchor bracket as shown. This will keep the shaft from possibly falling out and causing injury or damaging the garage door or shaft. Move to the left side of the garage door. Slide the shaft out of the end bearing plate and slide a bearing on the shaft as shown.
Note: the bearing should face the same direction as the end bearing plate on the left. Slide the spring that you placed on the left side of the door at the beginning onto the shaft as shown. The stationary cone must be toward the center of the garage door while the winding cone must be toward the outside of the door.
You may need to loosen the set screws for the spring to slide onto the shaft. Slide the spring and bearing toward the center of the door. Loosen the set screws on the cable drum. Slide the cable drum on the shaft as pictured.
Insert the shaft back into the end bearing plate. Move to the right side of the garage door and repeat this process. Start by pulling the shaft out of the end bearing plate. Slide the cable drum on the shaft as shown. Measure to see how far the shaft extends beyond the end bearing plate on each side of the garage door. Center the shaft by equalizing this distance. Remove the vise grip from the spring anchor bracket. Slide the bearing toward the bracket and lube the bearing and the shaft with drops of oil.
Insert the bolts in the stationary cones of the new torsion spring, and insert the bolts in the slots on the spring anchor bracket. Make sure that the bearing is inside the stationary cone. Finger tighten nuts on bolts until the stationary cone is flush against the center bearing plate. Forcing the cones by tightening the bolts may break a cone if it is catching on a bearing.
Winding garage door springs with cracked cones can cause the springs to spin loose and the bars to fly. Secure the bolts. If you are converting from a Torquemaster or an extension spring system, remove the old cable from the bottom fixture. You may need to use a screwdriver to get the cable off. Install the new cable. If this is a new installation, you may have installed the cables earlier.
Slide the cable drum toward the end bearing plate until the cable drum is flush against the race of the bearing. Finger-tighten the set screws on the cable drum. Caution: Under-tightening the drums could cause the drum to slip and the door to cock or fall. Over-tightening the set screws could damage the shaft or drum, resulting in the same problems.
This is a critical step. A common problem for do-it-yourselfers and inexperienced garage door repairmen is getting the end of the cable to properly seat in the slot of the cable drum. I usually bend the end of the cable 90 degrees with my needle nose pliers as shown.
Bending the cable will help you avoid problems with the tip at the end of the cable catching on the end bearing plate and causing the cable to come off and the garage door to jam, cock, or fall. Check to make sure the cable is straight in the slot and not sticking out the side. Also the edge of the cable stop should not be pointing to the side as shown.
The cable tip should fit completely inside the drum, with the rounded part facing out so the tip can't scrape the end bearing plate. After inserting the cable, pull down on the drum to tighten the cable around the outer groove on the drum.
Twist the shaft to keep the cable tightly on the drum. While twisting, vise grip the shaft as shown to keep the cable on the drum. The top of the vice grip should be tight against the garage header.
This will keep the cable snug on the first drum while you install the cable on the other drum and position it in place. It also keeps the shaft from turning and the cables peeling off when you wind the springs. That single grip can save many hours of walking back and forth and having to level and re-level the door after the springs are wound.
Insert the cable on the drum. Pull down on the cable drum to tighten the cable on the drum. While pulling down on the drum push the shaft to the right to make sure the right cable drum is butted snugly against the inner race of the right end bearing. Push the left drum against the race of the left end bearing. Properly following these two steps will result in both cables having the same tension.
After the springs are wound, the garage door will level properly and it will not have a gap under one end. It is now time to wind the spring. Mark the shaft just beyond the winding cone to assure that you have installed the correct spring on the correct side of the spring anchor bracket. Torsion springs always grow in length when they are wound in the proper direction.
If your spring does not grow as you wind it, you are winding it the wrong direction probably because it is improperly installed. If this happens, you have the wrong wind spring and you need to install it on the other side of the center support bracket. Tape your winding bars, not only to assure that you are inserting the bars completely into the cones as you wind the springs, but more importantly to assure that the bar does not slip out of the cone when you stretch the spring at the end.
This has happened to me several times. We stretch the springs after winding them because the shaft floats horizontally between the flexible end bearing plates as the door operates. At this point you will wind the springs. Many garage door servicemen mark the springs with chalk or paint, but you can probably wind the springs in the time it would take me to explain how to read the marks.
You will be winding up on the torsion spring. This is your first quarter turn. Count "one. Insert the second bar. This is "two. Raise the second bar 90 degrees and insert the first bar. This is "three. If the spring shortens in length, unwind the spring and switch sides - the spring is on the wrong side.
Otherwise, continue winding until you reach a count of " On 8' doors count to Each time you insert a bar into the winding cone, listen for the click to let you know the bar is in all the way. Not inserting the bar all the way could cause the plug to explode. If the spring comes loose from the plug at about 6 turns, you are probably winding the spring backward because you have the wrong wind spring. Put the spring on the other side of the spring anchor bracket.
Otherwise, after winding the springs, you will need to stretch the springs and secure the winding plug. This can be very difficult, and it can be especially dangerous. On several occasions I have had the winding bar slip out of the plug while tightening the set screws.
Having the bar marked with tape next to the plug can help to prevent this from happening to you.
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